ZZ Top-Gimme all your lovin (Paris Bercy)

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ZZ Top-Gimme all your lovin (Paris Bercy)

ZZ Top-Gimme all your lovin (Paris Bercy)

ZZ Top-Gimme all your lovin (Paris Bercy)

16 octobre 2010

ZZ Top-Gimme all your lovin (Paris Bercy)

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

Betta fish make fun and beautiful pets, but more than likely your betta fish is going to get sick at some point in time. It is important that you are prepared to treat your betta when he is sick and this includes being aware of various diseases that affect betta fish, their symptoms, and how you can treat them. Once you know the basics of betta fish diseases you will be better prepared to recognize and treat your betta to prevent the disease becoming too serious or even fatal. The following are five of the most common diseases that affect betta fish.

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

Tail or Fin Rot

Eliminator

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

Tail rot and fin rot are common betta diseases that are caused by water that becomes too dirty. You can actually prevent this disease from ever affecting your fish if you are careful to always keep their water clean. As a general rule this is an easy condition to treat and it does not seem to be contagious either. If you treat your fish as soon as possible you will be able to stop the progression of the disease and their tails and fins will grow back.

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

Some of the symptoms to look for include the betta's tail and fins getting shorter and shorter. Their fins may also start to have a darker color and they may appear as if they are dissolving or actually falling apart. While some betta's may not even act sick, others may stop eating, get clumped fins, and start looking pale.

Thankfully treating tail and fin rot is fairly easy and will provide results in a few weeks. For treatment you will need to do a full jar water change and use Fungus Eliminator, as well as either tetracycline or Triple Sulfa. After the initial change you will need to be sure to change the water every three days and when you do you should add more medication to the water as well. It is important that you continue the treatment until you fish improves and you seen new fin and tail growth occurring. This may take a few weeks, so continue the treatment until your fish improve.

Ick

Another very common disease in betta fish is ick. Ick is actually a type of parasite and many times it is present in frozen food that is live. Although ick is one of the most contagious betta diseases, it can be treated. You can prevent your fish from getting ick by adding Aquarisol and salt to your fish's water.

If you start to see white dots appearing on your betta's body, including the head and even his eyes, this is a sign that your fish has ick. More than likely your beta will also become much less active than before and may appear sick and have clumped fins as well. They may feel itchy, so you may see them darting and rubbing against rocks in their tanks.

Since ick is such a contagious disease it is best to go ahead and treat the entire tank of fish for disease. Ick is very sensitive to temperature, so you should raise the temperature in your tank to about 85 degrees F. For every gallon in your tank, add one drop of Aquarisol every single day until your fish are better. Usually it will only take a few days to get rid of this disease.

Dropsy

Dropsy is actually the most common disease among bettas and it is also the most likely to be fatal to your fish as well. While not a great deal is known about this disease many feel that it is linked to live foods, and it especially seems linked to feeding them the black worms. Many people have found that they can prevent dropsy all together by not allowing their fish to eat black worms.

The symptoms of dropsy are quite easy to recognize and they include a bloated belly and scales that appear as if they are raised. The raised scales may actually appear very similar to a pine cone.

Unfortunately there is not a known cure for this betta fish disease. It is, however, very important that you isolate the betta that appears to have dropsy as soon as possible so the other fish will not contract the disease.

Swim Bladder Disorder

Another very common disease that betta's may get is swim bladder disorder. This actually comes as a result from feeding them too much. This disease is not contagious, and as a general rule it affects the younger bettas if they have eaten to much or have become very stressed.

If you see a betta that is having a hard time swimming, seems off balance, or prefers to just lay near the bottom, there is a good chance they are suffering from swim bladder disorder. Many times you will see them just sliding along on the bottom of the tank as well.

Many times you will find that your betta will recover by himself, but it is probably a good idea to not feed them as much for a few days. It is also helpful to eliminate brine shrimp from their diet as well, as this can actually cause part of the problem. In the future, try to be sure that you feed your fish a balanced diet to prevent this from happening again.

These are just a few of the common betta fish diseases that you my deal with in your bettas. Other diseases that bettas may have to deal with include external parasites, bacterial infection, fungal infection, depression, and velvet. Having medications on hand such as tetracyclin, Ampicillin, jungle fungus eliminator, and maracin 1 and 2. Just taking some simple preventive measures can help keep your fish from developing many of these diseases, but it important to know what to do if these diseases occur in your fish.

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

ZZ Top-Gimme all your lovin (Paris Bercy)
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Removing Porn - How to Remove Porn From Your Computer Before Someone Else Finds It

It doesn't matter how it got there in the first place, but now unwanted porn has just got to go. And fast!

Removing Porn - How to Remove Porn From Your Computer Before Someone Else Finds It

Removing Porn - How to Remove Porn From Your Computer Before Someone Else Finds It

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Removing Porn - How to Remove Porn From Your Computer Before Someone Else Finds It

Removing Porn - How to Remove Porn From Your Computer Before Someone Else Finds It

Removing porn from a computer is not an easy task even for a computer pro. You really need to use specialized software for this. Here's why.

Deleted Porn Files Remain On Your Computer

Even if you try to delete porn files one by one by hand, the original files still remain on your computer since deleting files doesn't actually remove the files themselves. You may not see them listed, but they are still there and could easily be recovered by just about anyone. Deleting files only creates free space on your drive but doesn't actually erase the files you delete so it's not a secure way to remove porn files from your computer.

Traces Of The Porn Files That Have Been Viewed Or Downloaded Remain On Your Computer

There may be traces and even full copies of the porn files that have been viewed on or downloaded to your computer. So even if you delete the porn files you are aware of, other copies or traces of the same files may still be hiding elsewhere on your computer just waiting to be discovered. And there are a lot of places these traces can hide and it's nearly impossible to root them all out by hand.

Also, many programs keep a record of the files, including any pornography related files that have been viewed on your computer. So the program someone used to view dirty pictures or watch adult videos on your computer may still be storing an incriminating record of this porn viewing history on your computer.

Removing Porn From Your Computer Is Nearly Impossible To Do By Hand

These are just a few reasons why removing porn from your computer is nearly impossible to do by hand. The only real solution as to how to remove porn from your computer is to use computer privacy software that is especially suited for this task. Software that not only deletes files but erases them permanently. This type of software may cost a few bucks but it's worth it for the peace of mind knowing that unwanted porn files are gone for good.

Removing Porn - How to Remove Porn From Your Computer Before Someone Else Finds It

A Matter of Time - Drag Racing Elapsed and Reaction Times Explained

Perhaps among the most taken for granted piece of the drag strip is something intangible, always fleeting, and something we drag racers try to keep to an absolute minimum: time. Time is a drag racers best friend and enemy. A split-second is close to an eternity as races are frequently won and lost by mere ten-thousandths of a second.

A Matter of Time - Drag Racing Elapsed and Reaction Times Explained

A Matter of Time - Drag Racing Elapsed and Reaction Times Explained

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A Matter of Time - Drag Racing Elapsed and Reaction Times Explained

A Matter of Time - Drag Racing Elapsed and Reaction Times Explained

Methods for generating lap-times have evolved over the course of organized drag racing's 60-year life. Perhaps the most ground breaking innovation in timing advancements came from early drag racing organizer C.J. Hart in 1950. Hart fashioned a timing system comprised of two photo cells that would record a racers top speed. Long before the construction of elaborate, purpose built timing towers, Hart's timing system was operated from an out of commission hearse stationed near the finish line. Just outside the hearse, Hart would post on a score board the top speeds of the meet and the names of those fast drivers. The introduction of this timing system actually preceded the formal establishment of quarter mile racing, as meets at the time were generally contested at roughly three-tenths of a mile.

Today, this technology translates into the bright orange cubes we see strategically placed between the two lanes over the distance of the quarter-mile. These "timing cones" are actually photo cells, similar to what C.J. Hart introduced in 1950. The timing system has become further sophisticated, now recording incremental times, total elapsed times, and average miles per hour. Times are now recorded at 60', 330', 660' (1/8-mile, half track), 1,000', and 1,320'(1/4-mile, finish line). Average mile per hour is also calculated at the 1/8-mile and ¼-mile marks on the drag strip.

A modern day, sophisticated timing system is capable of measuring ETs as precise as one-millionth (0.000001) of a second. However, all of the ultra fancy high-tech fiber-optic and digital technology in the world is useless if the driver can't make sense of the data generated. Aside from the elapsed times determining the outcome of the race, the precise numbers found on your time slip are highly beneficial in helping improve your driving skills.

There is no better place to begin this discussion than the starting line. A common misconception of newcomers is that the ET (elapsed time) clock begins when the green starting line bulb is lit. This is a false misunderstanding. In fact, there are two separate time recordings taken on the race track: reaction time and elapse time. The reaction time is the time elapsed from the flash of the green bulb to the motion of the vehicle as it completely leaves the starting line beam. If that seemed a bit too much, let me refresh your memory and elaborate further.

Recall, timing sensors are triggered by the disruption of a photocell. Lining the drag strip at strategic locations are photocells that project an invisible beam that contacts a reflector (the orange cube) on the center line. The disturbed beam triggers the timing system. The stage light (second set of yellow incandescent bulbs just above the first amber LED bulb) on the Christmas tree tells the starter and fellow competitor that you are prepared and committed to running the race. The stage light is activated by the starting line beam. The time that passes between the green bulb lighting and the front tire of the race car exiting the stage beam accounts for the driver's reaction time. A perfect reaction on a typical five-tenths (0.500) of a second full-tree (three amber bulbs countdown sequentially in half (0.500) second intervals) is 0.500 seconds, or more simply converted today as 0.000 seconds.

The Christmas tree has had a number of facelifts during its nearly 50-year long stint as the standard method of starting competition drag races. Throughout the 1950s and early 1960s, a flagman standing between the two race cars would signal when the drivers were to launch off the starting line. The obvious dangers and subjectivity of using a flagman contributed to design and implementation of the Christmas tree. The Christmas tree made its formal debut at the 1963 NHRA Nationals. The Christmas tree originally consisted of five-amber bulbs but was reduced to it's now standard three-amber bulbs in the mid-1980s. In 2003, the NHRA introduced LED bulbs, replacing the once standard incandescent amber bulbs.

Two basic Christmas tree designations exist: pro tree and full tree.

The pro tree is used primarily in heads-up categories (Top Fuel, Funny Car, Pro Stock, Pro Modified, Pro Stock Bike, Top Alcohol Dragster and Funny Car, and Super Comp/Gas/Street). With the pro tree, all three-amber lights illuminated instantly.

The full tree is primarily used for bracket-style dial-in races, when a staggered tree is necessary to accommodate vehicles of sometimes vastly different ETs. Such categories using a full tree include Competition Eliminator, Super Stock, Stock Eliminator, Super Pro, Pro, Sportsman, and Junior Dragster. With the full tree, each amber bulb illuminates sequentially, typically 0.500-seconds.

Yes, there are exceptions to these general rules of thumb. For instance, the majority of pro tree races are contested on a 0.400-second tree, where 0.400-seconds separate the yellow amber bulbs and the green bulb. The Super Street (10.90 heads-up) category, however, is an exception as they use a 0.500-second tree.

Regardless of 0.400- or 0.500-second trees, the driver's time slip will read perfect as a standardized 0.000-second. To demonstrate, what was once a 0.500-second perfect reaction time would now be a 0.000-second perfect reaction time. The same goes for 0.400-second perfect reaction times. Thus, any deviation from a perfect 0.000-second reaction time will be recorded as a -/+ 0.000-second.

A Matter of Time - Drag Racing Elapsed and Reaction Times Explained