The 5 Top Rated Rifle Scopes

You are a serious hunter. You live for opening day of deer season; everything you do, every vacation you plan, revolves around opening day. You take the time to seek out the best gear to make this and every hunting season a success.

The 5 Top Rated Rifle Scopes

You have made the best selection of a rifle, found just the right ammunition to fill the chamber. Your ready to head out into the fields and woods. Or are you? Wait, all that time and effort needs to be crowned with one final item to ensure an accurate shot. It's time to find the right scope to get the job done. With that in mind, I have reviewed the 5 top rated rifle scopes for your hunting season.

Eliminator

The 5 Top Rated Rifle Scopes

1. Burris Eliminator- This is where technology meets practicality. The Eliminator combines a 800 yard range finder with a rifle scope. This scope is so smart it determines the trajectory of just about any round. How can it do this? The Eliminator includes an internal computer which contains information on almost 600 factory loaded cartridges and the ballistics curve of each. Beside the fact that the Eliminator removes the need for a separate range finder, it also allows for you to gain those precious seconds and limit your movements when you get ready to squeeze the trigger.

The 5 Top Rated Rifle Scopes

The 5 Top Rated Rifle Scopes

2. Redfield Revolution Line- With this recommendation, you get four choices of rifles scopes, not just one. The Redfield line of optics was defunct until it's parent company, optics giant, Leupold & Stevens set out to bring it back into the hunting arena with authority. The Revolution line sports four models; 2-7x33mm, 3-9x40mm, 3-9x50mm and 4-12x40mm. Each choice has a black matte finish and either a 4-Plex or Accu-Range reticle. The Accu-Range can hold points out to 500 yards. Each scope comes with a lifetime warranty and the Rapid Target Acquisition lockable eyepiece. This feature alone allows you to quickly acquire your target providing better accuracy.

3. Schmidt & Bender Summit 2.5-10x40mm- This new design by Schmidt & Bender is their first scope to be built on a one inch tube. The 40mm lens allows for a compact, low profile scope which can still boast good light transmission. The Summit can be mounted on a magnum or large caliber rifle and is extremely light, weighing in at 16.8 ounces.

4. Trijicon AccuPoint TR22-1- This powerfully built scope from Trijicon offers magnification from 2.5x to 10x range. However, according to optic giant Trijicon's website, that isn't even the best part of this scope. Trijicon boasts on its website that the AccuPoint TR 22-1 is the "largest and most powerful Trijicon rifle scope on the market." The TR 22-1 has a huge 56mm objective, 30mm tube and the highest quality glass which allows for astonishing light gathering capability. Fiber optics and a tritium light provide a intense aiming point in the center of a duplex crosshair.

5. TruGlo Tru-Brite Xtreme 4x32- Though the Xtreme 4x32's original purpose was tactical use, this black matte scope built with aircraft grade aluminum and sporting a four inch eye relief is truly useful for the strategic hunter. The Xtreme 4x32 is Nitrogen filled which boosts its waterproof and fogproof capabilities.

Any of these scopes would make an amazing addition to your new, or not so new rifle. Gear up with the right scope, it could make your entire hunting season.

The 5 Top Rated Rifle Scopes

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ZZ Top-Gimme all your lovin (Paris Bercy)

ZZ Top-Gimme all your lovin (Paris Bercy)

ZZ Top-Gimme all your lovin (Paris Bercy)

16 octobre 2010

ZZ Top-Gimme all your lovin (Paris Bercy)

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

Betta fish make fun and beautiful pets, but more than likely your betta fish is going to get sick at some point in time. It is important that you are prepared to treat your betta when he is sick and this includes being aware of various diseases that affect betta fish, their symptoms, and how you can treat them. Once you know the basics of betta fish diseases you will be better prepared to recognize and treat your betta to prevent the disease becoming too serious or even fatal. The following are five of the most common diseases that affect betta fish.

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

Tail or Fin Rot

Eliminator

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

Tail rot and fin rot are common betta diseases that are caused by water that becomes too dirty. You can actually prevent this disease from ever affecting your fish if you are careful to always keep their water clean. As a general rule this is an easy condition to treat and it does not seem to be contagious either. If you treat your fish as soon as possible you will be able to stop the progression of the disease and their tails and fins will grow back.

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

Some of the symptoms to look for include the betta's tail and fins getting shorter and shorter. Their fins may also start to have a darker color and they may appear as if they are dissolving or actually falling apart. While some betta's may not even act sick, others may stop eating, get clumped fins, and start looking pale.

Thankfully treating tail and fin rot is fairly easy and will provide results in a few weeks. For treatment you will need to do a full jar water change and use Fungus Eliminator, as well as either tetracycline or Triple Sulfa. After the initial change you will need to be sure to change the water every three days and when you do you should add more medication to the water as well. It is important that you continue the treatment until you fish improves and you seen new fin and tail growth occurring. This may take a few weeks, so continue the treatment until your fish improve.

Ick

Another very common disease in betta fish is ick. Ick is actually a type of parasite and many times it is present in frozen food that is live. Although ick is one of the most contagious betta diseases, it can be treated. You can prevent your fish from getting ick by adding Aquarisol and salt to your fish's water.

If you start to see white dots appearing on your betta's body, including the head and even his eyes, this is a sign that your fish has ick. More than likely your beta will also become much less active than before and may appear sick and have clumped fins as well. They may feel itchy, so you may see them darting and rubbing against rocks in their tanks.

Since ick is such a contagious disease it is best to go ahead and treat the entire tank of fish for disease. Ick is very sensitive to temperature, so you should raise the temperature in your tank to about 85 degrees F. For every gallon in your tank, add one drop of Aquarisol every single day until your fish are better. Usually it will only take a few days to get rid of this disease.

Dropsy

Dropsy is actually the most common disease among bettas and it is also the most likely to be fatal to your fish as well. While not a great deal is known about this disease many feel that it is linked to live foods, and it especially seems linked to feeding them the black worms. Many people have found that they can prevent dropsy all together by not allowing their fish to eat black worms.

The symptoms of dropsy are quite easy to recognize and they include a bloated belly and scales that appear as if they are raised. The raised scales may actually appear very similar to a pine cone.

Unfortunately there is not a known cure for this betta fish disease. It is, however, very important that you isolate the betta that appears to have dropsy as soon as possible so the other fish will not contract the disease.

Swim Bladder Disorder

Another very common disease that betta's may get is swim bladder disorder. This actually comes as a result from feeding them too much. This disease is not contagious, and as a general rule it affects the younger bettas if they have eaten to much or have become very stressed.

If you see a betta that is having a hard time swimming, seems off balance, or prefers to just lay near the bottom, there is a good chance they are suffering from swim bladder disorder. Many times you will see them just sliding along on the bottom of the tank as well.

Many times you will find that your betta will recover by himself, but it is probably a good idea to not feed them as much for a few days. It is also helpful to eliminate brine shrimp from their diet as well, as this can actually cause part of the problem. In the future, try to be sure that you feed your fish a balanced diet to prevent this from happening again.

These are just a few of the common betta fish diseases that you my deal with in your bettas. Other diseases that bettas may have to deal with include external parasites, bacterial infection, fungal infection, depression, and velvet. Having medications on hand such as tetracyclin, Ampicillin, jungle fungus eliminator, and maracin 1 and 2. Just taking some simple preventive measures can help keep your fish from developing many of these diseases, but it important to know what to do if these diseases occur in your fish.

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

ZZ Top-Gimme all your lovin (Paris Bercy)
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Removing Porn - How to Remove Porn From Your Computer Before Someone Else Finds It

It doesn't matter how it got there in the first place, but now unwanted porn has just got to go. And fast!

Removing Porn - How to Remove Porn From Your Computer Before Someone Else Finds It

Removing Porn - How to Remove Porn From Your Computer Before Someone Else Finds It

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Removing Porn - How to Remove Porn From Your Computer Before Someone Else Finds It

Removing Porn - How to Remove Porn From Your Computer Before Someone Else Finds It

Removing porn from a computer is not an easy task even for a computer pro. You really need to use specialized software for this. Here's why.

Deleted Porn Files Remain On Your Computer

Even if you try to delete porn files one by one by hand, the original files still remain on your computer since deleting files doesn't actually remove the files themselves. You may not see them listed, but they are still there and could easily be recovered by just about anyone. Deleting files only creates free space on your drive but doesn't actually erase the files you delete so it's not a secure way to remove porn files from your computer.

Traces Of The Porn Files That Have Been Viewed Or Downloaded Remain On Your Computer

There may be traces and even full copies of the porn files that have been viewed on or downloaded to your computer. So even if you delete the porn files you are aware of, other copies or traces of the same files may still be hiding elsewhere on your computer just waiting to be discovered. And there are a lot of places these traces can hide and it's nearly impossible to root them all out by hand.

Also, many programs keep a record of the files, including any pornography related files that have been viewed on your computer. So the program someone used to view dirty pictures or watch adult videos on your computer may still be storing an incriminating record of this porn viewing history on your computer.

Removing Porn From Your Computer Is Nearly Impossible To Do By Hand

These are just a few reasons why removing porn from your computer is nearly impossible to do by hand. The only real solution as to how to remove porn from your computer is to use computer privacy software that is especially suited for this task. Software that not only deletes files but erases them permanently. This type of software may cost a few bucks but it's worth it for the peace of mind knowing that unwanted porn files are gone for good.

Removing Porn - How to Remove Porn From Your Computer Before Someone Else Finds It

A Matter of Time - Drag Racing Elapsed and Reaction Times Explained

Perhaps among the most taken for granted piece of the drag strip is something intangible, always fleeting, and something we drag racers try to keep to an absolute minimum: time. Time is a drag racers best friend and enemy. A split-second is close to an eternity as races are frequently won and lost by mere ten-thousandths of a second.

A Matter of Time - Drag Racing Elapsed and Reaction Times Explained

A Matter of Time - Drag Racing Elapsed and Reaction Times Explained

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A Matter of Time - Drag Racing Elapsed and Reaction Times Explained

A Matter of Time - Drag Racing Elapsed and Reaction Times Explained

Methods for generating lap-times have evolved over the course of organized drag racing's 60-year life. Perhaps the most ground breaking innovation in timing advancements came from early drag racing organizer C.J. Hart in 1950. Hart fashioned a timing system comprised of two photo cells that would record a racers top speed. Long before the construction of elaborate, purpose built timing towers, Hart's timing system was operated from an out of commission hearse stationed near the finish line. Just outside the hearse, Hart would post on a score board the top speeds of the meet and the names of those fast drivers. The introduction of this timing system actually preceded the formal establishment of quarter mile racing, as meets at the time were generally contested at roughly three-tenths of a mile.

Today, this technology translates into the bright orange cubes we see strategically placed between the two lanes over the distance of the quarter-mile. These "timing cones" are actually photo cells, similar to what C.J. Hart introduced in 1950. The timing system has become further sophisticated, now recording incremental times, total elapsed times, and average miles per hour. Times are now recorded at 60', 330', 660' (1/8-mile, half track), 1,000', and 1,320'(1/4-mile, finish line). Average mile per hour is also calculated at the 1/8-mile and ¼-mile marks on the drag strip.

A modern day, sophisticated timing system is capable of measuring ETs as precise as one-millionth (0.000001) of a second. However, all of the ultra fancy high-tech fiber-optic and digital technology in the world is useless if the driver can't make sense of the data generated. Aside from the elapsed times determining the outcome of the race, the precise numbers found on your time slip are highly beneficial in helping improve your driving skills.

There is no better place to begin this discussion than the starting line. A common misconception of newcomers is that the ET (elapsed time) clock begins when the green starting line bulb is lit. This is a false misunderstanding. In fact, there are two separate time recordings taken on the race track: reaction time and elapse time. The reaction time is the time elapsed from the flash of the green bulb to the motion of the vehicle as it completely leaves the starting line beam. If that seemed a bit too much, let me refresh your memory and elaborate further.

Recall, timing sensors are triggered by the disruption of a photocell. Lining the drag strip at strategic locations are photocells that project an invisible beam that contacts a reflector (the orange cube) on the center line. The disturbed beam triggers the timing system. The stage light (second set of yellow incandescent bulbs just above the first amber LED bulb) on the Christmas tree tells the starter and fellow competitor that you are prepared and committed to running the race. The stage light is activated by the starting line beam. The time that passes between the green bulb lighting and the front tire of the race car exiting the stage beam accounts for the driver's reaction time. A perfect reaction on a typical five-tenths (0.500) of a second full-tree (three amber bulbs countdown sequentially in half (0.500) second intervals) is 0.500 seconds, or more simply converted today as 0.000 seconds.

The Christmas tree has had a number of facelifts during its nearly 50-year long stint as the standard method of starting competition drag races. Throughout the 1950s and early 1960s, a flagman standing between the two race cars would signal when the drivers were to launch off the starting line. The obvious dangers and subjectivity of using a flagman contributed to design and implementation of the Christmas tree. The Christmas tree made its formal debut at the 1963 NHRA Nationals. The Christmas tree originally consisted of five-amber bulbs but was reduced to it's now standard three-amber bulbs in the mid-1980s. In 2003, the NHRA introduced LED bulbs, replacing the once standard incandescent amber bulbs.

Two basic Christmas tree designations exist: pro tree and full tree.

The pro tree is used primarily in heads-up categories (Top Fuel, Funny Car, Pro Stock, Pro Modified, Pro Stock Bike, Top Alcohol Dragster and Funny Car, and Super Comp/Gas/Street). With the pro tree, all three-amber lights illuminated instantly.

The full tree is primarily used for bracket-style dial-in races, when a staggered tree is necessary to accommodate vehicles of sometimes vastly different ETs. Such categories using a full tree include Competition Eliminator, Super Stock, Stock Eliminator, Super Pro, Pro, Sportsman, and Junior Dragster. With the full tree, each amber bulb illuminates sequentially, typically 0.500-seconds.

Yes, there are exceptions to these general rules of thumb. For instance, the majority of pro tree races are contested on a 0.400-second tree, where 0.400-seconds separate the yellow amber bulbs and the green bulb. The Super Street (10.90 heads-up) category, however, is an exception as they use a 0.500-second tree.

Regardless of 0.400- or 0.500-second trees, the driver's time slip will read perfect as a standardized 0.000-second. To demonstrate, what was once a 0.500-second perfect reaction time would now be a 0.000-second perfect reaction time. The same goes for 0.400-second perfect reaction times. Thus, any deviation from a perfect 0.000-second reaction time will be recorded as a -/+ 0.000-second.

A Matter of Time - Drag Racing Elapsed and Reaction Times Explained

Plastic Forming - Vacuum Forming Guide

What is vacuum forming? What does it do? What are the methods used in forming vacuums? Vacuum forming is basically the procedure used in shaping any kind of plastic. The shaping of unusual shapes like dishes, boxes and others is called Vacuum forming process. The simplest explanation to its method is by placing the mould into an oven, heated for it to take shape and cooled within a significant amount of time. The advantages of using vacuum forming as a method is limitless and effective. Majority of the vacuum forming products are affordable, since not many produce vacuum forming products. The moulds could be made of low-costing materials and the process of the vacuum forming could be possibly faster than any forming process.

Plastic Forming - Vacuum Forming Guide

Plastic Forming - Vacuum Forming Guide

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Plastic Forming - Vacuum Forming Guide

Plastic Forming - Vacuum Forming Guide

- The most common product made using vacuum forming is a simple plastic toy

- All of the process used includes three important stages. Heating, shaping and cooling.

- There are factors that would be vital in the process selection of the vacuum forming.

- Quantities of the product

- Material of the product

- Shape and details of the product

- Final product's shape and size

1. Clamping process

The clamp or the fastener gives security to the materials being processed. By using this vacuum forming method, you could process even the thickest materials. It is important that the frame of the clamps is strong for the materials not to move during the whole vacuum forming process.

2. Heating process

This vacuum forming method makes use of infra-red heaters and aluminum plates. Although this kind of process is usually handles by larger machines, it could former thicker plastics rapidly. The heaters are located both above the aluminum plates and below it, to produce quality outcomes.

3. Bubble

When the plastic material is inside the machine and it has reached the temperature needed for it to form, this method pre-stretches the plastic to give a smoother outcome product. The bubble method is important because it could assure that unusual shaping materials with extraordinary angles could be reached by the heat.

4. Sheet level

This method involves an electric beam inside the machine that inspects the plastic material and the bottom heater. This method is used when the plastic starts to sag. When the plastic sags, the beam would automatically break down and a quantity of air would enter the machine causing the sagginess to stop.

6. Vacuum

This vacuum forming method pre-stretches the plastic material. The vacuum serves as assistance in the forming of quality sheets. There are two vital parts in a vacuum - the vacuum tank and the vacuum pump. These two parts enable the machine to rapidly mold the hot sheets.

Once the materials have been shaped and formed, a cooling procedure is done before releasing the plastic.

- Cooling is important because when the materials are released, the molds would become deformed and would cause a rejected outcome

- High speed fans are made use to fasten the cooling process. There is also an option in using s spray mist which is directed into the product sheet

- When cooled, it is inserted again into the machine to perform a reverse pressure method that strips excess product from the mould

7. Finishing Up

There are several trimming methods that could be used in vacuum forming. These methods would depend on the size of the part, production number needed, the kind of trimming, and the material's thickness. The finishing of the product or the post-forming processes depends upon the materials processed in the vacuum forming method. Some finishing includes designing, printing of decorations, strengthening of the product and construction. Although there are many kinds of method used in forming plastics, you could always make use of the easiest method - vacuum forming. Anybody could do it. With just the right tools and these friendly procedures, you could make your own toy in a jiffy.

Plastic Forming - Vacuum Forming Guide

How to Deal With the Smell of Dead Mice

So you're one of those unfortunate few whose humble abode has been affected by the smell of dead mice. It's a hideous smell that seems like it will never go away. How could something so horrible ever fade away as a distant memory?  You might even be thinking of moving to a hotel!!  I can't say that I blame you, but there is hope.

How to Deal With the Smell of Dead Mice

How to Deal With the Smell of Dead Mice

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How to Deal With the Smell of Dead Mice

How to Deal With the Smell of Dead Mice

I'm sure you've tried everything under the son to get rid of the stench. How many candles have you lit?  Where's the potpourri?  If that's your idea of dealing with the smell, it's not going to work.  This will merely mask it, and I'm guessing if you're reading this... It probably didn't work so well.

How do you deal with this problem? This may seem obvious, but you have to get rid of the dead mouse. I'm not saying that to be funny either.  As long as there is decay, it will stink.  Easy as that. Even after handling the dead mouse, you may still be left with a smell because your furniture, carpet, walls, whatever absorbed the pungent odor.  Don't buy something to mask the smell, eliminate it.

What happens if you can't find the dead mouse?  Hate to say it, but you're going to have to outlast it.  When the mouse is completely dried out, the stench will eventually fade.  Depending on the rate of decay though, this can take weeks, maybe even months.  Again, don't try to mask the smell.  Get an odor eliminator.  What sets the two apart is that an odor eliminator will bond with the smell and neutralize it before it reaches your nose, whereas a perfume simply mixes with the odor... at that point who knows which is worse?  Dying mouse or dying mouse with ridiculously over done perfume?

In conclusion, it's two simple steps.  Remove the source.  Eliminate (not mask) the odor.

How to Deal With the Smell of Dead Mice

Trion Mini Mist Eliminator Protects Employees and Equipment

Trion, a division of Fedders Corporation, has developed an innovative mist collector called the Mini Mist Eliminator (Mini M.E.). Virtually all screw machines, CNC machines, surface and centerless grinders use water-soluble, synthetic and petroleum coolants to protect cutting tools and parts. The mists associated with these coolants can be harmful to the health of the machine operator through inhalation and contact with the skin and eyes. Based on potential health risks, the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) has established recommended exposure limits for oil mist.

Trion Mini Mist Eliminator Protects Employees and Equipment

Trion Mini Mist Eliminator Protects Employees and Equipment

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Trion Mini Mist Eliminator Protects Employees and Equipment

Trion Mini Mist Eliminator Protects Employees and Equipment

The Mini M.E. removes oil mist from the air by utilizing the principle of electrostatic precipitation. This principle involves drawing the oil mist through an impinger which removes a majority of the mist, especially large droplets. The remaining mist is drawn through an ionizing section, charging the remaining mist particles which then pass through oppositely charged collector plates. The charged mist particles are attracted to the collector plates like a magnet. These particles then drip back down to be recaptured or drained away. The dirty collector plates can be simply washed clean, eliminating costly filter replacements.

The Mini M.E. also eliminates the need for extensive duct work because it can be easily mounted on the machine, platform or ceiling. This also helps to free up floor space. The Mini M.E. can help save on energy costs by being wired directly to the machine tool control, operating only when the machine tool does. It also helps to reduce maintenance costs by protecting equipment from oil mist.

This quality unit not only traps and removes the oil mist, but also the smoke associated with cutting tools and grinders. The Mini M.E. cleans and recirculates indoor air with up to 95% efficiency rate on 0.3 micron particles. It also offers a great advantage in that it can be seamlessly integrated into pre-existing machine tool systems.

Trion is one of the most trusted names in air purification systems. Trion has produced high quality products for industrial, commercial, military and residential markets since 1947.

Trion Mini Mist Eliminator Protects Employees and Equipment